My current pond consists of a main Koi pond, a water feature that overflows into the Koi pond and a physically separated garden pond that shares the same filtration system. The drawing below describes the filtration system and I would recommend this as a minimum design to anyone who is thinking of building a new Koi pond. This design overcomes a few problems that I encountered with the earlier filtration systems used for my first two ponds.
The drawing below shows the plan view of the filter.
The first chamber is the gravity pipe chamber or settlement chamber. Water enters the settlement chamber at the bottom from the pond's bottom drains through two 4 inch diameter (100 mm diameter) pipes. Two other lead-in pipes (75 mm diameter) pull water from my water garden pond and also from the bottom drain of my water feature. There is also a small skimmer pipe (75 mm diameter) that removes surface debris from the Koi pond to the filter. The settlement chamber allows for solid waste to settle before going into the filter media.
Each inlet pipe in this chamber is configured with a socket to allow me to push in standpipes to stop water flowing into the filter during filter maintenance. Photo above shows two standpipes in position.
A copper pipe with a tap allows easy refills from the water mains without the need to pull a garden hose. It comes with a float valve (commonly used in cistern) that automatically shuts off the tap water flow when the desired water level is reached. This chamber also contains a 50 mm diameter overflow pipe that leads to a drain.
Filtration Chamber 1 is for mechanical filtration. It contains filter brushes which acts as the mechanical filter. The brushes trap solid wastes and debris like fallen leaves. This can then be removed and hosed down when needed.
Filtration Chamber 2 is for biological filtration. It contains filter mats, placed vertically and supported by plastic grating at the bottom. The mats provide the areas for the bacteria to grow.
Filtration Chamber 3 and 4 is for biological filtration. It contains sacks of crushed cockle shells and coral chips, supported by plastic grating at the bottom of the filter chambers. The shells and coral chips provide the pH buffer needed to control the pH level in the pond. It also provides the areas for the bacteria needed in biological filtration to grow.
The Return Pump Chamber contains two return pumps. The pumps pushed the filtered water back to the Koi pond and water garden. One return pipe goes to my water feature and water garden. The other pushes water out through 3 venturi pipes into my Koi pond. The water feature and venturi pipes provide aeration for the pond. Once water is pushed out from the Return Pump chamber, gravity will draw water from the pond's bottom drains into the first chamber.
Each filter chamber has a bottom drain that leads to the Sludge Chamber through a 40 mm diameter pipe. Ball valves are used to open and close the bottom drains.
A long PVC pipe, with tailored ends as shown, allows the valves to be operated easily from above and makes filter maintenance easy. I can flush the bottom of all my filter chambers, especially the settlement chamber, within a few minutes. This makes the task so easy that I can do this almost daily.
The filter shell is made of thick reinforced concrete, as is the rest of my pond. Pre-casted, one-inch thick concrete slabs are used to construct the filter chambers. Balau wood is used for the removable covers.
as a mater of fact your design is fantastic. I want to make a filter for my Telabia pond (450 m3) same design. May I ask you to send me - by mail- the design in detail specially dimensions. it would be great.
ReplyDeleteThank you in advqnce
I have emailed to you the dimensions as requested. Note that the size of your filter is dependent on the size and number of fish stocked and feeding level (i.e. amount of waste produced).
ReplyDeleteHi Jeffrey,
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Hello. I really think that the design of your pond is very interesting and easy to maintain. I also want try to make a filtering system for my pond using the same design. May I ask you to help me with the design dimension and specifications? Hope that you can tell me by mail. Thank you in advance.
ReplyDeleteDrop me a note with your email and I can send you the diagrams with some dimensions
DeleteI also want try to make a filtering system for my pond using the same design. Please help me with the design dimension and specifications
Deletemy email address is donaldbb.88@gmail.com
hi there, I just emailed you to ask if you can share your pond schematic? thanks
ReplyDeleteI have sent you the diagrams of the filter with some dimensions
Deletehello sir just wondering if you still have the design for the design you did some time back..if yes please share to my email below
Deletehi jeffrey,
ReplyDeletegreat filtration design, seen sth similar in germany, but including a vortex feature in the first settlement chamber.
i have a question about the sludge drainage. why do u need to be able to close these bottom drains in the filter chambers off? if they all go to the sludge chamber and sludge pump is off, there wont be any suction once it has reached the water level of the other chambers, right? so it wouldnt make a difference whether its open or closed off? once u turn the sludge pump on, sucking the sludge from the bottom of the sludge chamber to the drain the drop of water level would suck the sludge from the filtration chambers into the sludge chambers. right? or am i making some mistake here?
im about to build my swimpond in mexico, so very looking forward to hearing from you!
mine is about 80m3 of volume, reinforced concrete. plan on using two oase aquamax 4000(gph), for bottom drain and skimmer one each. is the water volume coming in through the bottom drain and skimmer only depending on the pipe diameter leading to the filters, or depends on the height? i guess the pressure will be bigger in the bottom drain pipe? just want to make sure, the skimmer has enough suction as well in this gravity system. but u write u gave it a 75mm pipe and the 100mm to the bottom drain. so i guess a large part of the water is coming from bottom drain?
why do u recommend venturi pipes? does the compression oxygenize the water?
thanks for any advice
best regards,
viktor
My sludge chamber is normally kept dry until it is time to flush the filter. Then I open the valves of the bottom drain to let gravity and difference in water head to push the sludge from the bottom of each chamber to the sludge chamber. The sludge pump will then be turned ON to pump these dirty water and sludge to an external drain or sewer.
DeleteIf I were to leave all the valves open and left the sludge pump OFF, you are right to say that the water will fill in the sludge chamber till there is little difference in water head and suction would stop. This is not good since there will be stagnant water in the sludge chamber. Breeding round for pests and mosquitoes.
Regarding the venturi pipe design, the aim is to aerate the water in the fish pond. See my post on this.
http://my3ponds.blogspot.sg/2009/05/pond-aeration.html
Hope the above is useful information for you.
thanks a lot, yes that sounds very reasonable.
Deleteso if u have to empty all filter chambers for cleaning the filter mediums u will discard quite a bit of watervolume? or can u send the water from sludge back to pool with a valve switch, once the lower dirty water part has been pumped off?
regards,
v
You would not want to send dirty water from the sludge chamber back to the pond! Once the filter is cleared and clean, shut everything off i.e. sludge pump and valves. Top up the pond with clean water and then turn ON the normal pumps to circulate the water for the fish pond.
Deleteyes of course! i meant, once the sludge is removed and clean water enters the sludge chamber to not discard that clean water, which for 6 filter chambers makes up alot of volume.
Deletebut i assume u never empty the filter chambers completely? u simply remove the filters while water is in them, clean those and then reinsert them?
I have stand-pipes in the first chamber of the filter that I can insert to block pond water from entering the filter chamber. Alternatively, you can install valves to do the same function. Once pond water is stopped from entering the filter, I can drain and clean the filter. Note that for bio-filter, it is not advisable to clean the filter mats too completely as you want some remaining bacteria in the filter. Once I am satisfied with the cleaning, I will remove the standpipes in the first chamber, allow water to reenter the filter, and top up the pond. Note: At most, change only 30% of the pond water as Koi does not like too drastic change in water condition. See also my blog post on cleaning the filter. http://my3ponds.blogspot.sg/2009/07/biological-filter-maintenance.html
DeleteThanks for the amazing post. I really like it.
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very interesting , good job and thanks for sharing such a good blog.
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Good day! im really interested in your filtration system, if you dont mind if i ask you the design of your filtration system. thank you in adavance.
ReplyDeleteVery nice DIY koi pond filtration bro I am sure that you have a clear water
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